June 29, 2017
In this tutorial article we will show you how to make your own DIY compression stuff sack
This stuff sack is lightweight and serves as great storage for hammocks, quilts, clothes or any compressible items. This is a larger stuff sack, compression is horizontal along the length of the stuff sack. Compresses on the short side in several spots.
|Skill Level||Estimated Time||Estimated Cost|
Materials and Tools
|Materials Needed:||Tools Needed:|
|1 Yard Fabric||Sewing Machine|
|1/2 Yard 300D Reinforcement||Scissors|
|3 Feet Zing It 1.75||Ruler/Tape Measure|
|5 Feet 5/8″ Grosgrain Webbing||Marker or Chalk|
|3 Side Release Buckles(Webbing Adjustment)||Compression Stuff Sack Template|
- Prepare a pattern using the included Compression Stuff Sack Template. You can either print two and tape the halves together or use one and flip it over to get a completed “wing piece”
- Trace the pattern using tailors chalk or a marker. You will need a quantity of 4 of these pieces. Cut the wing pieces to size out of the 300D reinforcement fabric.
- Cut a 20″ wide by 24” tall rectangle out of the provided piece of xenon
- Cut a 3″ wide by 24” tall rectangle out of the provided piece of xenon
- Cut 3 pieces of 5/8″ grosgrain webbing 4″ long each and fuse both ends carefully with a flame
- Cut 3 pieces of 5/8” grosgrain webbing 15″ long each and fuse both ends carefully with a flame
**Seam allowances should be 1/4″ unless otherwise noted**
Separate the wings into pairs. Align each set of wings so that the good sides of the fabric pieces are inwards. This means the outsides of each pair should be the shinier, coated side (wrong side) of the fabric.
Thread each piece of grosgrain webbing that you cut to 3” in length with a single female side release threaded on each loop. I like to sew a line of stitching close to the side release buckle in the webbing to keep it from shifting throughout the rest of the process.
Center each loop you’ve just created in each flat area between the curves on the wings with the female side release in between the pieces of 300D and it should be set with 1¼” of grosgrain protruding beyond the wings.
Center the ends of each of the 15” pieces of grosgrain into the other pair of wings. These should be centered in each flat area on the wings and should be set with 1¼” of grosgrain protruding beyond the wing
Cut approximately 5 notches up to the stitching on all of the curved areas of the wings. Do this for both wings. Step 7
Turn the wing pieces right side out.
Trace the pieces of grosgrain inside of the wings using chalk or some washable marker. You will need to find the location of the grosgrain webbing by feel. Stitch a reinforcing X-box as pictured below.
Stitch the finished 300D pieces to the sides of the 20″ wide rectangle these should be positioned 4″ up from the anticipated bottom of the stuff sack. These “wings” should be placed with the unsewn edges to the edge of the rectangle of Xenon with the grosgrain facing the center of the “bag.”
Double stitch the 3″ wide rectangle of xenon to both sides of the piece that you’ve just created lining it up to the top and bottom of the wider piece of xenon. This will attach the two edges making it a cylinder that will be your bag. The stitching should be done on the “inside of the bag.” I prefer to space my two rows of stitching about 1/8” apart.
Double stitch the bottom of the bag so that you have a finished inside out bag. The bag should be laid flat with the 3” strip of xenon centered as pictured below. Again for double stitching I prefer the two rows of stitching about 1/8” apart.
Mark the 3” wide strip of xenon in the center. fold the bag in half along the mark that you’ve just made.
Thread the draw string (Zing It) through the channel you’ve just created, add a mini cord lock, tie an overhand knot in the ends, then trim and fuse the cord **Note** you may have to tie a slip knot behind the cord lock when the bag is fully loaded and compressed to keep it from slipping open.
Enjoy your new gear!!